2018 TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 GMT Chronograph Replica Watch Reviews

The Carrera, a pillar of TAG Heuer’s identity, turns 55 this year and is feted with a rush of Carrera models, including this racy 45mm Carrera Chronograph GMT fitted with the souped-up in-house Heuer 02 movement. Displaying the 3-6-9 chronograph configuration of the original Carrera, TAG Heuer steams ahead and embraces a contemporary skeletonised look to ensure the Carrera stays in the fast lane.

Globetrotters and GMTs

GMT watches are perennial favourites and turned up in all sorts of guises at Baselworld 2018, including Tudor and Rolex’ bold move to corner all price segments of the market with their respective Pepsi-bezel GMT models. Doing what the Carrera does best, TAG Heuer proposed a combo of its in-house chronograph movement topped with a GMT complication, marking a first for the brand. Brimming with brazen energy, fans of the original Carrera will be happy to note that the 45mm stainless steel case still boasts some identity traits of its ancestor with flat, faceted lugs and the original 3-6-9 chronograph layout on the dial.

A 24-hour GMT scale

By far one of the most useful functions for today’s globetrotters, a GMT or second time zone complication allows you to consult two time zones simultaneously. TAG Heuer’s new TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 GMT Chronograph replica comes with a cool two-tone ceramic bezel in blue and black engraved with a 24-hour scale. It’s impossible to avoid the comparison, so let’s get it out of the way and state the obvious: yes, the black and blue bezel will remind many of you of the Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Batman’ watch.

Given the complexity of the skeletonised dial, the red lacquered, arrow-tipped GMT hand is a welcome and highly visible presence allowing you to consult home time at a glance. Dipped in luminous material, the red hand is mounted between the hour and minute hands allowing it to skim over the indices and indicate the 24-hour track on the black and blue ceramic bezel. The polished steel and rubber crown, flanked on either side by the chronograph pushers, is used to set the GMT function and the solid case ensures water-resistance to depths of 100 metres.

A very detailed skeletonised dial

Although it took me a few minutes to digest, once I had got my bearings with all the information on the dial and understood what everything represented, I was able to appreciate why the revamped Carrera has become one of TAG’s best sellers. As you will remember, the skeletonised dial of the Carrera family made its debut back in 2015 following a major overhaul marked by Hublotian touches like the modular construction and naked dial. The overall effect is dynamic, contemporary and the use of colour is spot on.

Suspended on a black skeletonised bridge, the two silver (rhodium-plated and snailed) chronograph counters for the minutes and hours and the snailed blue (to match the bezel) small seconds counter conform to the classic Carrera 3-6-9 layout. What I did find intriguing was the incorporation of a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock coupled with the fact that if you look closely into the depths of the dial, you can see the ghostly date track lurking in the background. To read the watch in poor light conditions, the hands and rectangular hour markers are all treated with white SuperLumiNova.

A finely-tuned engine

As part of its 55th-anniversary gifts, the Carrera has been fitted with an upgraded engine. Entirely manufactured in-house, the Heuer 02 movement is an integrated automatic chronograph based on the original Calibre 1969/CH80 and featured on the TAG Heuer Heritage Autavia models. Composed of 168 parts, the chronograph is activated by a column wheel and a vertical clutch ensuring smoother and more accurate timings, and the movement displays a more classic and balanced 3-6-9 configuration for the counters. The open case back exposes the machine-finished movement with its black tungsten openwork rotor.

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Breitling Superocean Heritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown Replica Watch

For perfectly good reasons, an ambassador announcement rarely elicits more than an eye roll in the watch world, but when a brand partnership is done right, and for the right reasons, everyone stands to get something out of it – including watch fans. Thankfully, Breitling’s recently assembled “Surfer Squad” is surprisingly shaping up to fall in the latter camp, at least in my book, with the debut of the new Superocean Heritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown edition watch. Now, bear in mind this isn’t an entirely new watch – it just adds a new dial and a sustainable twist to the existing in-house Superocean II we covered during Baselworld this year, in the form of a recycled nylon ‘Econyl’ NATO strap thanks to a neat tie-in with the ocean preservation initiative of Breitling Squad member Kelly Slater.

Granted, it’s not the first time we’ve seen a strap built with recycled materials in the watch space. Oris released a Diver Sixty Five earlier this year (to coincide with a beach cleanup initiative) that came on a strap woven from an exclusive new material called r-Radyarn, made from post-consumer recycled polymers. But the journey to this Breitling-Outerknown watch and this special new strap goes through Breitling’s new ‘Surfer Squad’ – a trio of brand ambassadors introduced by new CEO Georges Kern in the early months of his tenure at Breitling, which includes the likes of Australian surfers Stephanie Gilmore and Sally Fitzgibbons; but it’s the inclusion of 11-time World Surf League Champion Kelly Slater that has yielded this collaboration.

See, Slater co-founded Outerknown back in 2015 along with prolific menswear designer John Moore, and together, the two have created a menswear brand committed to ocean protection while using as many environmentally mindful manufacturing alternatives as possible – including recycled fishing nets and old nylon surplus to create products like flannel shirts, Levi’s jackets, and board shorts. So it should come as little surprise that a watch collaboration with an apparel brand committed to sustainable manufacture would yield not only some kind of nod towards protection of natural resources but watch-specific accessories as well – and so here we are.

Before we get too deep into the watch itself, it’s interesting to see a brand move away from the traditional avenues of nautical partnerships (sailing, professional divers, etc.), and into the World Surf League – arguably uncharted territory for many Swiss watch brands, with only TAG Heuer springing to mind from recent years as a major brand tipping ints toe into the world of surfing. Beyond the Outerknown collaboration, Breitling (along with Outerknown) is now supporting the Ocean Conservancy, and the brand’s “triathlon squad” just announced a partnership with Qhubeka – a South African charity that provides bicycles to impoverished communities. All three endeavors are admittedly a small philanthropical piece of a larger pie, but one where genuinely good intent appears to be at the heart of Breitling’s new ambassador structure.

As mentioned, the Breitling Superocean II Outerknown replica watch builds on the variant introduced earlier this year, by adding a scratch-resistant black DLC coated stainless steel case and a dark blue sun-ray dial – both colors that are expressed in the striped nylon strap, branded with Outerknown’s “OK” logo above the 12:00 side of the case. During a short wear period, our David (who shot these images at the launch event in London) found the recycled nylon strap itself to be surprisingly soft to the touch, and a welcome contrast to many of the overly stiff, thin, and abrasive NATO straps that seem to be en vogue as of late (looking at you, Tudor). But perhaps the best detail of the strap itself is that nothing about it gives away the fact that it’s recycled – it’s quite simply a comfortable, well-made, forward-thinking alternative with zero downsides that we’d love to see more of in the future. It is only once you take a real up-close look at it that you see the plasticky material that resembles the tough fishing nets are made from. It doesn’t look any worse than your regular woven NATO – and, if anything, it feels softer and nicer to touch and wear.

On paper, the watch itself bears all the same metrics of the current SOII: a 44mm stainless steel case, fitted with a Valjoux/ETA 7750 based chronograph movement with a day/date aperture at 3:00. Breitling has been pretty good with minimizing case thickness on these 7750-equipped pieces (that’s a famously thick base caliber), although this one will sit that much higher on the wrist with the strap running underneath it. The real test of this setup is how the recycled strap is able to support such a large, heavy watch head and we found the fabric softness conducive to a snug, comfortable fit that proved more than enough for comfortable wear — even though the watch did “flip” a bit side to side and did not sit perfectly flat on the wrist. Those who like to wear watches on NATO straps will know (and will not mind) this.

Nearly three-quarters of a million tons of fishing nets and gear are abandoned in the ocean every year, some of which is up-cycled into cheap bracelets, sunglasses, skateboards, and other eco-friendly toys and home products, but this is the first time that we’ve seen recycled nets spun into a watch strap – particularly one from a luxury watch brand. It might be a simple innovation, but it’s a long-overdue one – and in an industry filled with passive, feel-good ‘slacktivism’ as the standard for doing good, it’s great to see larger mouthpieces like Breitling and others starting to brand these types of initiatives in a meaningful way. The new Superocean II Outerknown isn’t entirely a surprise – Breitling did hint on their collaboration page that specific products sharing Outerknown’s mission would be on tap for release by the end of the year, but here’s to hoping there’s more in the pipeline.

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A Gift For Christmas Day-Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M With Master Chronometer Certification

 

Quick Take

This is the Seamaster 300M you know and love, but with a number of important updates. In true Omega form, the above image only shows roughly a third of the 14 new Seamasters (!) that are launching at Baselworld this week. There are six models in steel and eight more in some version of two-tone, and the case is now 42mm wide, with a wave dial in the front and a modern Master Chronometer Caliber 8800 ticking within.

Initial Thoughts

Aesthetically, this is not a reinvention of the Seamaster by any means. And some 25 years in, you either like the skeleton hand Seamaster design or you don't. For fans of the look, there are a number of subtle changes that re-establish this long-standing diver as a modern member of the Omega lineup. The case is slightly larger (42mm vs 41mm), but the lovely turned lugs remain, along with an updated cone-shaped helium escape valve (HeV) at ten o'clock. While Omega says this new shape allows the HeV to be operated underwater, I cannot think of a single reason why you would want to unscrew your HeV while actively underwater. It's possible that the new design requires a greater explanation as to its function (maybe it's for gloves? or for a better grip when wet?), but HeVs should only be opened in very specific scenarios, and none of them involve the watch being underwater. Expect an update on this later in the week.


The new Omega Seamaster 300M models replica watch also have updated ceramic bezels with either Ceragold or white enamel inlays. Ceramic continues to the dial, where we also see a return to the wave pattern (something I always loved about my 2254.50), though the use of ceramic makes for a much shinier expression of this design. While similar in concept, the open hands have been updated and the date has migrated to six o'clock, now featuring a color-matched date wheel. Viewed from behind, a sapphire display case back shows what is likely the most considerable update, the inclusion of a METAS-certified Master Chronometer 8800 movement.

Seamaster devotees will recall that the range has been host to several movements over the years, including the ETA-based Omega Caliber 1120 and, most recently, a Co-Axial 2500 that is essentially based on the same original movement (though considerably modified by Omega). With the new Seamaster 300M employing the Master Chronometer 8800, Omega is continuing to phase out their older movements in favor of their more cutting-edge in-house hardware.


While we're certainly looking forward to seeing these new divers in the metal, looking at both the black dial and the blue dial versions (the most common in the lineage of the Seamaster 300M), they look like a welcome update to a well-loved model in Omega's lineup. Rather than reinventing the wheel, Omega has sought to apply the core competencies they have developed over the past 25 years, including mixed uses of ceramic and a Co-Axial movement that is highly protected against magnetism. The Seamaster is dead. Long live the Seamaster (and the wave dial).

The Basics

Brand: Omega
Model: Seamaster Professional Diver 300M

Diameter: 42mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Black, blue, or silver
Indexes: Applied, luminous
Lume: Super-LumiNova on markers and hands
Water Resistance: 300 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Matching bracelet or integrated rubber strap, both with fold-over extending dive clasp.

The Movement

Caliber: Omega Master Chronometer Caliber 8800
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Power Reserve: 55 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph)
Jewels: 35
METAS Certified Master Chronometer
Additional Details: Antimagnetic and featuring a co-axial escapement

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