2019-TAG Heuer adds 43mm Carrera Heuer-01 to line-up

What difference does 2mm make? That’s the question fans of TAG Heuer’s recognisable Carrera Heuer-01 Skeleton Manufacture Chronograph had earlier this year when the brand unveiled its latest iterations.

First launched at Baselworld in 2015, the Carrera Heuer-01 piqued the interest of watch fans not just for its sturdy 45mm case and skeletonised dial, but for the fact that it was new boss Jean-Claude Biver’s first chance to show off his ‘vision’ for the brand. All the design hallmarks pointed to sport-infused, masculine timepieces  – and a clear move towards the kind of butch, industrial, openworked designs that have done so well at Hublot, but here they come with an emphasis on affordability. To this end the watch was priced under 5,000 CHF and, at the time, was widely proclaimed as the world’s only 100 per cent manufacture chronograph with this type of value-for-money.TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-01 43mm replica watch.

The case

According to TAG, the watch “opened the doors to a new market,” so it is hardly surprising that the offer has been expanded just two short years later.  The shift to a slightly smaller 43mm case size almost screams market research, especially as the price points and technical specifications are almost entirely the same. The introduction of six new colour combinations – centred on cognac brown, black and navy blue – could suggest that TAG is pushing its affordable chronograph towards a younger customer that wants to spend his first meaningful pay cheque in the right way.

All of this speculation shouldn’t draw attention away from the fact that the 43mm Carrera Heuer-01 is growing into a rather attractive looking watch. The polished ceramic tachymeter bezel looks particularly suave in ‘cognac’ brown with a matching brown leather strap, but the black version with a black rubber strap is equally tempting. The case is available in brushed steel or matte ceramic with a domed sapphire crystal, and a crown in rubber and steel or black PVD.

The movement

A sapphire crystal case back reveals the movement, including the red column wheel, the skeleton chronograph bridge and circular black PVD weight. From the dial side, the chronograph operating levers and the date disc are open-worked, with added splashes of red in a nod to the world of motor racing. The three sub-dials make use of red-lacquered hands, rhodium-plated rings and ceramic to create the signature Carrera-feel, while rhodium-plated hour and minute hands and indices in white SuperLuminova complete the overall look.  

The 43mm Carrera Heuer-01 has a 50 hour power reserve and is water resistant to 100 metres. Prices remain comfortably under the £5,000 mark, with prices starting from £4,250 for the brown and blue colour options with leather straps, and the black variant with a stainless steel bracelet. When QP spoke to Mr Biver earlier this year, he said his plan for TAG Heuer was “60 per cent complete” so expect more iterations of the Heuer-01 in the near future as well.

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Introducing The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Replica watch

 

Quick Take

In 2011, Chopard introduced the L.U.C Quattro, which is powered by one of haute horlogerie's most interesting movements. This is the four-barrel L.U.C 1.98. Today, Chopard's debuting a new version of the watch, in a more classically elegant package. Chopard L.U.C Quattro replica watch.

Why This Watch Matters

Chopard can, at its best, stand toe-to-toe with anyone in the business when it comes to movement manufacturing. The company produces movements in a very wide range of finishes and styles, but the high end L.U.C movements made a huge splash when they first came out in 1996. Timezone's Walt Odets wrote, of the Michel Parmigiani-designed L.U.C 1.96, that it was "...an extraordinary development, particularly from a house often thought of, in recent years, more for jewelry watches than for significant horological craft. From the standpoint of both design and execution, the caliber 1.96 is probably the finest automatic movement being produced in Switzerland today."

Initial Thoughts

This is the longest power reserve model in the L.U.C collection. The Quattro debuted in 2005, and offered, through the caliber L.U.C 98.01-L, a nine day power reserve – one of the longest in any conventionally sized and conventionally designed wristwatch. A major achievement for Chopard was that despite the very long running time, the watch was (and is) certified by the COSC as a chronometer, and carried the Poinçon de Genève as well (known variously in English as the Geneva Seal or the Geneva Hallmark, the Poinçon de Genève was most recently updated in 2012 and is administered by the independent agency, Timelab).

Earlier versions of the Quattro were rather more ornamental than not, with dials sporting a range of finishes, and highly polished Roman numeral markers. The new version is relatively unadorned, but perhaps even more elegant. The Roman numerals have been replaced by diamond shaped, gilded markers, with Arabic numerals at three and nine, and the hands are now blued steel as well (though they retain the distinctive, vaguely Art Deco profile of the original Quattro designs). The subdials for the running seconds and date, and the power reserve, have also been simplified and the watch now has a bit more of an instrument-watch feel – it's got a pronounced marine chronometer vibe in this iteration, which is right in line with the extended power reserve. It's a limited edition in this version, of 50 pieces. This will be a very interesting watch to see in the metal, in a few days, at Baselworld.

The Basics

Brand: Chopard
Model: L.U.C Quattro
Reference: 161926-5004

Diameter: 43mm
Thickness: 8.84mm
Case Material: 18k rose gold
Dial Color: Vertical satin-brushed silver tone
Indexes: Gilded hour markers
Hands: Blued hours and minutes hands; blued baton hands for the small seconds, date, and power reserve
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Blue calfskin leather; polished 18k gold pin buckle

The Movement

Caliber: L.U.C 98.01-L
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve
Diameter: 28.60mm
Thickness: 3.70mm
Power Reserve: 216 hours (9 days)
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 39
Chronometer Certified

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Baselworld 2018 Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi” 126710 BLRO Replica Watch

This is it! The big news for Rolex this year, one that many expected and have dreamed of: the Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi 126710 BLRO replica watch. And why is it a dream come true for? Because it features a Jubilee bracelet, because it has a new movement, because it is still 40mm but mainly, because it is STEEL. Yes, that’s a big one.

While previously available in white gold only, the Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi is now offered in stainless steel and it costs “only” CHF 8,800. In all fairness, Rolex doesn’t reinvent the wheel here, but what is impressive is that it heard what collectors really want. And the result is simply stunning.

Case

First of all, the still-40mm GMT shows a slightly redesigned case, with new lugs: thinner and more tapered. The case bands have also been slightly redesigned. A positive point is that the maxi-case is out and this will certainly be the direction for other models in the collection. Then, on the contrary of previous launches, Rolex doesn’t start with a new model in gold, but in stainless steel.

The second big news is that the two-tone blue and red Pepsi bezel is now available on steel and not exclusively with an expensive white gold case. This means that this new Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi” 126710 BLRO goes back to the utilitarian roots of the model – light, resistant, more affordable. The Cerachrom bezel is equal to the previous WG version, with a monobloc construction.

The Rolex GMT Master II “Pepsi” 126710 BLRO also incorporates a new five-link Jubilee bracelet – which was offered on the historical model too – but now with an Oysterclasp – meaning a sporty bracelet fitted with the Easylink rapid extension system. As usual, the bracelet is both polished and brushed.

Movement

Last but not least, the GMT Master II 126710 BLRO features the new generation movement, calibre 3285. In terms of functionalities, no changes: 24h red GMT hand in the middle for home time, central Mercedes hour hand with adjustments per one-hour increments for the local time, and date at 3 o’clock. The Calibre 3285 stores up to 70h of power reserve and features a Parachrom hairspring and an improved escapement. It is of course certified as a superlative chronometer.

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