A Gift For Christmas Day-Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M With Master Chronometer Certification

 

Quick Take

This is the Seamaster 300M you know and love, but with a number of important updates. In true Omega form, the above image only shows roughly a third of the 14 new Seamasters (!) that are launching at Baselworld this week. There are six models in steel and eight more in some version of two-tone, and the case is now 42mm wide, with a wave dial in the front and a modern Master Chronometer Caliber 8800 ticking within.

Initial Thoughts

Aesthetically, this is not a reinvention of the Seamaster by any means. And some 25 years in, you either like the skeleton hand Seamaster design or you don't. For fans of the look, there are a number of subtle changes that re-establish this long-standing diver as a modern member of the Omega lineup. The case is slightly larger (42mm vs 41mm), but the lovely turned lugs remain, along with an updated cone-shaped helium escape valve (HeV) at ten o'clock. While Omega says this new shape allows the HeV to be operated underwater, I cannot think of a single reason why you would want to unscrew your HeV while actively underwater. It's possible that the new design requires a greater explanation as to its function (maybe it's for gloves? or for a better grip when wet?), but HeVs should only be opened in very specific scenarios, and none of them involve the watch being underwater. Expect an update on this later in the week.


The new Omega Seamaster 300M models replica watch also have updated ceramic bezels with either Ceragold or white enamel inlays. Ceramic continues to the dial, where we also see a return to the wave pattern (something I always loved about my 2254.50), though the use of ceramic makes for a much shinier expression of this design. While similar in concept, the open hands have been updated and the date has migrated to six o'clock, now featuring a color-matched date wheel. Viewed from behind, a sapphire display case back shows what is likely the most considerable update, the inclusion of a METAS-certified Master Chronometer 8800 movement.

Seamaster devotees will recall that the range has been host to several movements over the years, including the ETA-based Omega Caliber 1120 and, most recently, a Co-Axial 2500 that is essentially based on the same original movement (though considerably modified by Omega). With the new Seamaster 300M employing the Master Chronometer 8800, Omega is continuing to phase out their older movements in favor of their more cutting-edge in-house hardware.


While we're certainly looking forward to seeing these new divers in the metal, looking at both the black dial and the blue dial versions (the most common in the lineage of the Seamaster 300M), they look like a welcome update to a well-loved model in Omega's lineup. Rather than reinventing the wheel, Omega has sought to apply the core competencies they have developed over the past 25 years, including mixed uses of ceramic and a Co-Axial movement that is highly protected against magnetism. The Seamaster is dead. Long live the Seamaster (and the wave dial).

The Basics

Brand: Omega
Model: Seamaster Professional Diver 300M

Diameter: 42mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Black, blue, or silver
Indexes: Applied, luminous
Lume: Super-LumiNova on markers and hands
Water Resistance: 300 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Matching bracelet or integrated rubber strap, both with fold-over extending dive clasp.

The Movement

Caliber: Omega Master Chronometer Caliber 8800
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Power Reserve: 55 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph)
Jewels: 35
METAS Certified Master Chronometer
Additional Details: Antimagnetic and featuring a co-axial escapement

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Introducing The New Breitling Premier Collection Watch Replica

 

Quick Take

Breitling has been on the march. It's hard to believe its been just 12 months since Mr. Kern (formally of IWC) and his team went in with the intention of accelerating its product development while simplifying its range. Having seen new additions to the air segment of its four worlds (air, land, sea, and professional) earlier in the year with the Navitimer 8, today In London I had the opportunity to get up close with the new Premier collection.

The Premier launched back in 1943, and has always been focused on subtlety and elegance versus rugged functionality. This new collection is made up of a series of four core references in time only, day-date, and chronograph formats with an array of dials, from deep blue to sunburst silver: the B01 Chronograph 42, the Chronograph 42, Automatic 40, and the Automatic Day-Date 40.http://www.d4l.co/breitling-replica.html

Initial Thoughts

Historically interest has been solely in its aviation and professional watches, but as this new collection proves, Breitling wants to "fish in a bigger pond," as Mr. Kern says. The new editions are clean and functional. Though not of the same dimensions as their predecessors of the early 40s, the new collection is more in line with current market demands (the B01 wears well at 42mm). The Premier B01 Chrono pictured below is the standout to me. With a twin register display and the well known, robust Calibre 01, this is a handsome looking watch. At $8,400 it sits in a competitive area in terms of price point, going up against the likes of IWC, JLC, and Rolex.

I have been super impressed with how the brand has updated its identity (digitally and in-store), its clarity of message and adjusted distribution (focusing on fewer, higher impact retailers). I believe the confluence of all these factors will provide a sound platform for the Premier collection to do well.

The Basics

Brand: Breitling
Model: Premier


Diameter: 40-42mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Various
Indexes: Batons
Lume: Yes, on markers and hands

The Movements

Premier B01 Chronograph 42

Caliber: Manufacture Caliber B01
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 7.2mm
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Winding: Automatic with ball-bearing rotor
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 47
Total Components: 346
COSC Chronometer Certified

Premier Chronograph 42

Caliber: Caliber 13 (Valjoux 7750 base)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 7.9mm
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Automatic with ball-bearing rotor
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 25
COSC Chronometer Certified

Premier Automatic 40

Caliber: Caliber 37 (ETA 2895-2 base)
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Diameter: 25.6mm
Thickness: 5.6mm
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Winding: Automatic with ball-bearing rotor
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 27
COSC Chronometer Certified
Premier Automatic Day & Date 40

Caliber: Caliber 45 (ETA 2834-2)
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, day, date
Diameter: 29mm 
Thickness: 5.05mm 
Power Reserve: 40 hours 
Winding: Automatic with ball-bearing rotor 
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph) 
Jewels: 25
COSC Chronometer Certified

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Hands-On The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire

At Baselworld 2018 there were many highlights, including, but not limited to, the uptick in ladies' tool watches, the Rainbow Daytona, and more solid, consumer-friendly pieces than ever. But one of the biggest surprises to me was my strange affinity for the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon 5 Days Sapphire. While this watch is may be one of the more ridiculous pieces of our time (I mean, who actually needs this watch?) I couldn't help but respect it, and here's why.

Let's get it out of the way: Hublot is not for everyone. In fact, Hublot isn't for a lot of people (especially me, typically) but you have to give the brand credit for always pushing boundaries, whether it's related to aesthetics, mechanics, or materials. Stephen covered the highlight of this year's new collection – the Big Bang Unico Red, the very first watch with a red ceramic case – in a First Take video, but the watch that really did it for me was the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire replica watch. You might say it's a little bit different.

This watch is the latest iteration of the Big Bang Power Reserve Tourbillon 5 Days, it's just the first time the watch has been rendered in sapphire crystal, a material concept first explored by Hulbot back in 2016. The original Big Bang Sapphire made a name for itself by being the second "clear" watch to hit the luxury timepiece market. It was Richard Mille who first debuted a clear watch with the RM56-02 Tourbillon Sapphire (a development from the 2012 RM 056) using polished sapphire crystal.

The case

The case of this watch measures 45mm across and 14.25mm thick, which is on the larger side, but this is Hublot after all. The entire case is made from plates of sapphire that are first cut from solid blocks and then milled and polished down to the correct shapes. This houses a skeletonized resin dial with a rhodium-plated brass handset and oversized luminous Arabic numerals, combining for a harmonious look.

The movement

The movement powering this watch is the caliber HUB6016, which is an in-house, manually wound tourbillon with a massive 115-hour power reserve. In case you're keeping track, that's actually 4.79 days, not a full five, but I'll give Hublot the five hours and two-and-a-half minutes here. This is not a new movement, but rather a variation on the one used in the previous Big Bang Tourbillon 5 Days models (such as the Magic Gold version). However, this time the main plate, with its concentric circle bridges, is made of acrylic, continuing the transparent theme throughout. It's really cool to see this caliber in this different way – it's already a striking design as is, and making it in an unorthodox material really takes things to the next level.

The real reason I love this watch though is because of how it looks on the wrist. I don't know what it is exactly, but I dig it. I think it has something to do with the fact that clear watches are reminiscent of my pre-teen Swatch years. Or maybe it has to do with the juxtaposition between the high and low of a clear watch and the price tag, which ain't low at all ($148,000 to be exact). Whatever it is, I can't help but dream of being someone with not a financial care in the world where I could just drop a serious chunk of change on a Hublot made out of sapphire crystal.

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The TAG Heuer Autavia Calibre Heuer 02 For HODINKEE Watch Replica Reviews

A great new TAG Heuer Heritage model is joining the popular Autavia family. Today we bring you the TAG Heuer Autavia Calibre Heuer 02 for HODINKEE replica watch, one of the most exciting sport watches we've had the pleasure to co-design in recent times. And it’s a HODINKEE exclusive, which means that you can only find it here in the HODINKEE Shop.

The dial

In the early 1970s, Heuer began experimenting with bold, auto-inspired color combinations on its dials. These represented a radical departure from the comparatively staid – at least where color was concerned – designs of the 1960s. By the early '70s, one could observe the blue, white, and black dials of the so-called "Jo Siffert" Autavia, and the red and black of the Viceroy Autavia. But neither of these watches touched the rarity of the black and orange design that would come to be known first as the “Orange Guy” and later the "Orange Boy" by the vintage Heuer enthusiast community on the OnTheDash forum. It was an important Autavia not only for its rarity – the Heuer collecting community knows of fewer than 30 examples – but also because it was the first Heuer chronograph to feature orange accents on its dial and racing stripes on its minute counter.

An homage to the exceptionally rare Heuer Orange Boy, the TAG Heuer Autavia Calibre Heuer 02 for HODINKEE features many of the distinctive elements that set the '70s original apart, including orange "racing stripes" on the chronograph minute counter, an orange seconds hand, orange-accented hour markers, and a tachymeter for calculating speed. While previous versions of the TAG Heuer Autavia have featured hour (H) and minute/hour (MH) bezels, it is fitting that the Autavia Calibre Heuer 02 for HODINKEE is the first of the more recent Autavias fitted with a tachymeter bezel, always the racer's choice.

The case

The TAG Heuer Autavia Calibre Heuer 02 for HODINKEE comes in a 42mm stainless steel case with a see-through caseback that features a special "HODINKEE Edition" engraving. Like the Orange Boy, this watch also features a great automatic chronograph movement – in this case, the Heuer 02 column wheel chronograph. The watch is complemented by a "beads-of-rice" bracelet as a nod to the Gay Frères bracelets of vintage Heuer chronographs.

This exclusive TAG Heuer Autavia Calibre Heuer 02 was designed by HODINKEE and TAG Heuer, and while not a strictly numbered edition, quantities are limited.

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What About Buy A Cheap Hublot Black Ceramic Classic Fusion Extra Thin Watch?

The case

This year they up the ante even more with one simple addition, something that was missing from last year’s model, a black ceramic case. A nice looking addition to the titanium and rose gold versions that were introduced last year.http://www.d4l.co/hublot-replica/classic-fusion.html

Hublot has been gaining ranks in the horological world since its inception simply due to its massive wrist presence of their slightly oversize watches. Needless to say, the trend for oversize watches may be short lived, but slimming it down is a step on the right direction for the pursuit of classicality while retaining the dynamic and modern codes that is Hublot.

The movement

Last year’s model was a great step towards thinner in-house movements. Hublot’s caliber HUB1300 comes straight from its manufacture in Nyon. The movement measures a mere 2.90 mm in height, comprises of 123 components, of which 23 jewels and offers a power reserve of whopping 90 hours.

The new extra-thin skeleton watch from Hublot carries the exact same DNA of its older sibling, a diameter of 45 mm and all visual aspects that make a watch look like a Hublot. What really sets this piece apart from its titanium and 18 carat King Gold siblings is the all black ceramic case that simply took the concept of skeleton watches from Hublot to a whole different level. The exterior of the piece is made almost entirely of ceramic, from the bezel, the case-back, the lugs down to the crown itself is either satin-finished or polished ceramic.

The dial

The contrast finish of this stealth-bomber like case and its see through dial gives that exquisite feeling of tradition and modernity that only Hublot can pull off. In essence, the piece is a walking contradiction, stealthy case and a loud dial, Hublot style.

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Hands-Up With The Brand New Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti

Baselworld 2016, Hublot proven once again its concept of “fusion“, its approach to blending various materials, a couple of which aren't usually associated with watches, that produces some interesting combinations. The development of their bond regarding the watchmaking company and Berluti, the famous Parisian shoemaker, they used patinated leather for your straps together with dial - creating a few a couple of a few a couple of a few things i personally seen to acquire most likely probably most likely probably most likely probably the most appealing creations within the brand. Today, the identical concept can be utilized within the chronograph, the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti.

I’m entirely conscious from the Hublot x Berluti piece could be a rather polarising watch. A bold creation, acquiring a specific uniqueness plus a very unusual refinement it was not to everyone’s liking, because they are frequently the problem with Hublot, obtaining a couple of calling it irrelevant. Somewhat this is often frequently positive. No under, it proves that Hublot dares and doesn’t create conservative objects to please everybody. Personally, I loved it determined it justified and well performed.  Transporting out a 3-hands type of Baselworld 2016, Hublot boosts the collection this year with another limited edition (similar to timepieces created while using the brand…) using the same leather dial, the identical color plan but adding a chronograph function for that package, allowing the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti.

Basically, the recipe might be compared: two watches, 1 " black ceramic, 1 " 18K King Gold, one with black leather, one with brown leather. The main attraction of individuals watches are extremely their dials. Partnering with what is frequently the very best five shoemakers in the world, using most likely probably most likely probably most likely probably the most precious leathers coupled with finest patinas, it'll be a waste to just use Berluti to produce straps. Due to this this unusual materials can also be useful for that dials. Indexes and logos are embossed inside the material, which shows lively colors. Using leather for every dial is extremely challenging, due to the impact of UVs, light and water, raising queries about aging. For instance, all of the moisture must be removed the material before it might be enclosed inside the situation. Furthermore, a specific treatment was applied so that you can make sure the leather doesn’t age too rapidly.

The case

Two colors will most likely be for sale, both when using the 45mm Classic Fusion Chronograph situation. The first edition, the Scritto An Amazing-black Costume, features a black ceramic situation, with polished and brushed surfaces, matched acquiring a black “engraved” strap plus a black leather dial. The second edition, the Scritto King Gold, can be a hot gold situation, utilizing the same polished and brushed surfaces, and plus a hot tobacco brown strap and leather dial (the signature shade of Berluti). Both share the identical display, acquiring a bi-counter chronograph - small second at 3 and 30-minute counter at 9, without date. They are run by the calibre HUB1143, an analog chronograph movement with 4Hz frequency and 42h power reserve - a modular movement based on an ETA calibre.

Both editions inside the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti replica watch will most likely be limited to 250 pieces. They've hands-crafted straps mixing rubber and Berluti leather and they're presented inside the Berluti bespoke box containing a whole Berluti leather care set.

Technical Specifications - Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti

    Situation: 45mm diameter x 13.40mm thickness - black ceramic or 18K King Gold - Azure very on sides - 50m water-resistant

    Movement: HUB1143 (ETA base) - automatic - 4Hz frequency - 42h power reserve - 280 parts (59 jewels) - hrs, minutes, small second, chronograph

    Strap: rubber with Berluti leather on folding clasp

    Limited edition of 250 pieces, for editions

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Review The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Heritage Bronze IW501005

Few watches can claim to be real icons. The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch is definitely one of them. This WWII-inspired pilot’s watch needs no introduction anymore. Of course, the one that everybody knows is the classic black dial version with white indices (Ref. IW500912). But there are more editions offered by the brand – including my favourite, the “Le Petit Prince” ref. IW500916 – with or without complications. Recently, the brand added a new, vintage-like subcollection in the Big Pilot line dubbed “Heritage”, which includes the watch we’re about to review, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Heritage Bronze IW501005. Patina is about to hit the sky!

Background

In 2002, IWC launched a watch that would later become a true cornerstone in the collection, a watch that many praised and loved, a watch that would define IWC as a true pilot’s watch manufacture: the Big Pilot. The first edition – the standard black dial version, Ref. IW5002 – was a modern re-introduction of an iconic German military watch, the B-Uhr. This watch, dating from 1935 and marked ‘Beobachtungsuhr’, was worn by the aeroplane’s navigators.

German Luftwaffe pilots used this watch as a true navigation instrument and, for this very reason, the watch was large – about 55mm in diameter – and accommodated a massive hand-wound pocket watch movement. The movement was surrounded by a soft-iron case, making these watches anti-magnetic, which is essential for aviation timepieces. A good example is the IWC Calibre 52 T.S.C. (Ref. IW431) that was first manufactured in 1940 (see picture above.)

The 2002 IWC Big Pilot’s watch Ref. IW5002 was a modern interpretation of this concept rather than a faithful copy of a past model. Still, it was defined by its oversized case – 46mm – and its emblematic dial, with hands and markers identical to the 1940s watches. Inside was an ultra-large movement, this time though with automatic winding and a 7-day power reserve. Vintage in style, but not in the specifications.

Three generations of Big Pilot’s watches were introduced – IW5002, IW5004, and the current IW5009. If the concept remained basically the same, some evolutions are to be noted. For instance, the mid-life model IW5004 was somehow decried by collectors because of a less legitimate dial display. At the SIHH 2016, IWC introduced a brand new version – Ref. IW5009 – which updated the dial and returned to the original design – with the 9 o’clock numeral back in place and the black triangle below the 12 o’clock index. Also, the movement was entirely changed, and if it still has a 7-day power reserve, it features a brand-new architecture inside. This is the movement that has been used for the creation of several limited (or not) editions, including two “Heritage” watches: the Ref. IW501004 with titanium case and the one that is the talking point here, the bronze version Ref. IW501005.

The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Heritage Bronze IW501005

The recently introduced Big Pilot’s Watch Heritage Bronze IW501005 is a limited edition of 1,500 pieces that IWC launched to please those who find the classic black dial version too technical, too modern, not enough rooted in military inspiration. I personally can understand that some folks want something more “vintage” when it comes to such WWII-inspired watches, as the IW5009 truly is a cold, instrument-like watch with no frills. Things solved, the titanium IW501004 and even more the bronze IW501005 are truly antique-looking.

The evolution, compared to the standard black dial version, is entirely about the look. Dimensions, specifications and mechanics are the same in both versions of the watch. However, the case and dial are new. In 2016 already, IWC launched some “Heritage” watches (in the frame of the SIHH when the Pilot’s watch collection was entirely changed) with the IWC Big Pilot’s Heritage Watch 48mm & 55mm (1,000-piece and 100-piece limited editions respectively). These two were, however, rather apart in the collection, and did not feature the automatic 7-day power reserve movement and the central seconds/power reserve indicator display. The IW501005 is more in line with what the classical Big Pilot’s Watch is supposed to be.

This IWC Big Pilot’s Heritage Bronze replica watch relies on the same 46.2mm x 15.4mm case as the standard steel version. The shape is also the same. What changes is the material used: a bronze alloy with its defining dark-gold colour – when new – or greenish patina – after being worn intensively. This choice of material changes the perception of the watch, giving it a resemblance to old, military models. Also, bronze is a unique material that lives and changes as you wear the watch. The watch shown here is already quite “aged” and has this distinctive green oxide all over the case. This is something that some will love and that some won’t. This is part of the fun of a bronze watch, so be aware of that before buying one. The watch you’ll have when going out of the shop won’t last as such…

Bronze is used also on the diamond-shaped oversized crown but not for the caseback, which is made of titanium for obvious skin-protection reasons. Bronze oxide can cause allergic reactions and this material shouldn’t be in direct contact with the skin. The caseback doesn’t feature a see-through sapphire (like the steel model). The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch is designed as a true instrument made to aid navigation (or not, depending on what you want to do with it), and its case is protected against magnetic fields with a soft-iron cage encircling the movement. In the same vein, the sapphire crystal on the dial side is secured against displacement by a sudden drop in air pressure.

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