Quick Take
Breitling has been on the march. It's hard to believe its been just 12 months since Mr. Kern (formally of IWC) and his team went in with the intention of accelerating its product development while simplifying its range. Having seen new additions to the air segment of its four worlds (air, land, sea, and professional) earlier in the year with the Navitimer 8, today In London I had the opportunity to get up close with the new Premier collection.
The Premier launched back in 1943, and has always been focused on subtlety and elegance versus rugged functionality. This new collection is made up of a series of four core references in time only, day-date, and chronograph formats with an array of dials, from deep blue to sunburst silver: the B01 Chronograph 42, the Chronograph 42, Automatic 40, and the Automatic Day-Date 40.http://www.d4l.co/breitling-replica.html
Initial Thoughts
Historically interest has been solely in its aviation and professional watches, but as this new collection proves, Breitling wants to "fish in a bigger pond," as Mr. Kern says. The new editions are clean and functional. Though not of the same dimensions as their predecessors of the early 40s, the new collection is more in line with current market demands (the B01 wears well at 42mm). The Premier B01 Chrono pictured below is the standout to me. With a twin register display and the well known, robust Calibre 01, this is a handsome looking watch. At $8,400 it sits in a competitive area in terms of price point, going up against the likes of IWC, JLC, and Rolex.
I have been super impressed with how the brand has updated its identity (digitally and in-store), its clarity of message and adjusted distribution (focusing on fewer, higher impact retailers). I believe the confluence of all these factors will provide a sound platform for the Premier collection to do well.
The Basics
Brand: Breitling
Model: Premier
Diameter: 40-42mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Various
Indexes: Batons
Lume: Yes, on markers and hands
The Movements
Premier B01 Chronograph 42
Caliber: Manufacture Caliber B01
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 7.2mm
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Winding: Automatic with ball-bearing rotor
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 47
Total Components: 346
COSC Chronometer Certified
Premier Chronograph 42
Caliber: Caliber 13 (Valjoux 7750 base)
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 7.9mm
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Winding: Automatic with ball-bearing rotor
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 25
COSC Chronometer Certified
Premier Automatic 40
Caliber: Caliber 37 (ETA 2895-2 base)
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds
Diameter: 25.6mm
Thickness: 5.6mm
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Winding: Automatic with ball-bearing rotor
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 27
COSC Chronometer Certified
Premier Automatic Day & Date 40
Caliber: Caliber 45 (ETA 2834-2)
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, day, date
Diameter: 29mm
Thickness: 5.05mm
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Winding: Automatic with ball-bearing rotor
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 25
COSC Chronometer Certified
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